Dwarf Hinoki Cypress

Hardy in zones 4-8, the Dwarf Hinoki Cypress grows best in full to partial sun (at least four to six hours of direct light) in moist but well-draining soil. It dislikes soggy roots, so avoid low spots that stay wet, and give it a sheltered location protected from harsh, drying winter wind.

Planting

1. Choose a site with full to partial sun and good air movement; more sun produces the densest, richest foliage.
2. Make sure the soil drains freely. If your ground is heavy clay, amend with compost or plant in a slightly raised mound to keep roots out of standing water.
3. Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the root ball is tall.
4. Set the plant so the root flare (where the trunk widens at the soil) sits right at or just above grade. Never bury the flare or pile soil against the trunk.
5. Backfill with the native soil, firm gently to remove air pockets, and water in slowly and deeply to settle the roots.
6. Spread two to three inches of mulch over the root zone, pulling it back a couple inches from the trunk to prevent rot.
7. For a low evergreen screen or row, space plants about 2 to 3 ft. apart on center (roughly 60% of the 2-4 ft. mature spread) so they knit together into a continuous low band without overcrowding.

Care & maintenance

• Water. Keep the soil evenly moist during the first one to two years while roots establish, watering deeply rather than lightly. As an evergreen, it also needs water during dry spells in fall and early winter to prevent foliage from drying out (desiccation).
• Feed. Apply a light, slow-release evergreen or conifer fertilizer in early spring. This plant is not a heavy feeder; avoid overfeeding, which forces weak growth.
• Light. Full to partial sun. Too much shade thins the foliage and loosens the form.
• Prune. Little pruning is needed; its natural shape is the selling point. If you must tidy it, shear or pinch only the green outer growth in late spring or early summer. Like other needled conifers, Hinoki cypress will not regenerate from bare, brown old wood, so never cut back into leafless interior branches.
• Spacing. For a low row or informal screen, plant about 2 to 3 ft. apart on center.
• Pests & disease. Generally trouble-free. Watch for bagworms (hand-pick the spindle-shaped "bags" before they spread) and, in poorly drained soil, root rot. Spider mites can appear in hot, dry weather; a strong spray of water knocks them back.
• Winter care. In exposed, windy sites, gently brush heavy snow off the branches to prevent splaying, and consider an anti-desiccant spray or a burlap windbreak for young plants in their first winter.

How big does a Dwarf Hinoki Cypress get?

It is a true dwarf, growing slowly to about 3-6 ft. tall and 2-4 ft. wide at maturity, with a softly pyramidal, irregular form. Because it grows so slowly, it stays in scale for many years, which is exactly why it's a favorite for foundations, entries, and small beds.

How fast does it grow?

Slowly. Expect only a few inches of new growth per year. That measured pace is part of its appeal: it won't outgrow a tight spot or need constant cutting back, and it holds its tidy shape with almost no effort.

Is it evergreen all year?

Yes. The glossy, dark-green, fan-shaped foliage stays on the plant through all four seasons, giving you reliable structure and color even in the depths of winter.

How far apart should I plant them for a low screen?

For a continuous low row or informal screen, set plants about 2 to 3 ft. apart on center. That spacing lets the 2-4 ft. mature spread fill in to a solid band without crowding. Keep in mind this is a low, slow screen for definition and texture, not a tall, fast privacy wall.

Does it need pruning?

Rarely. Its naturally elegant, layered habit is the whole point, so most gardeners leave it alone. If you want to tidy it, shear only the green outer growth in late spring. Avoid cutting into the bare brown interior wood, because like other needled conifers it will not regrow new foliage from leafless branches.

Why is my Hinoki cypress turning brown?

A little browning of the oldest interior foliage in fall is normal as the plant sheds its oldest growth. Widespread browning usually points to one of a few causes:

• Drought or winter desiccation — dry roots in summer or a dry, windy winter; water deeply, especially before the ground freezes.
• Poor drainage — soggy soil rots the roots; make sure the site drains freely.
• Spider mites — fine stippling and dulling in hot, dry weather; rinse the foliage with a strong jet of water.
• Bagworms — look for small camouflaged "bags" hanging from the branches and remove them by hand.