Brodie Eastern Red Cedar

Brodie Eastern Red Cedar grows in USDA zones 3 through 9 in full to part sun (at least six hours of direct light gives the densest, most upright growth). It is not fussy about soil and tolerates sandy, rocky, or clay ground, but it must have good drainage; junipers resent wet, soggy roots.

Planting

1. Choose a site with full to part sun and soil that drains freely. Avoid low spots that stay wet.
2. Dig the planting hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the root ball is tall.
3. Set the tree so the root flare (where the trunk widens into the roots) sits right at or slightly above grade. Never bury the flare.
4. Backfill with the native soil, firming gently to remove air pockets, then water in deeply to settle the roots.
5. For a privacy hedge, space plants about 4 to 6 ft. apart on center (roughly 60% of the mature width); tighter spacing fills in faster, wider spacing lets each tree keep its full form. For a single specimen, give it the full 6 to 10 ft. of width.
6. Apply a 2 to 3 in. layer of mulch over the root zone, keeping it pulled back a few inches from the trunk.

Care & maintenance

• Water. Water deeply and regularly through the first one to two growing seasons to establish the roots. As an evergreen it also benefits from a deep drink during dry spells in fall and early winter to prevent foliage desiccation. Once established it is notably drought tolerant.
• Feed. Junipers are light feeders. A modest application of a slow-release evergreen or conifer fertilizer in early spring is all it needs; avoid overfeeding.
• Light. Full sun produces the tightest, fullest column. Too much shade leads to thin, open growth.
• Prune. Shear only the green outer growth to tidy or tighten the form, ideally in spring or early summer. Like most needled conifers, red cedar does not regenerate from bare brown wood, so never cut back into leafless interior branches; you cannot force new growth there.
• Spacing. For a continuous privacy screen, plant 4 to 6 ft. apart on center; this closes the gaps while letting each tree mature properly.
• Pests & disease. Watch for bagworms, whose spindle-shaped cases can defoliate junipers if left unchecked; pick off or treat early in the season. Cedar-apple rust can appear as orange galls but rarely harms tree health; site away from apple and crabapple trees if rust is a local concern.
• Winter care. Brodie's narrow upright form can splay under heavy snow or ice. In snow-prone areas, gently brush off accumulation or loosely tie the column with soft twine for the season.

How far apart should I plant them for a privacy hedge?

For a solid screen, space Brodie Eastern Red Cedars about 4 to 6 ft. apart, measured center to center. That spacing lets the columns knit together into a continuous wall while still giving each tree room to mature. Plant on the closer side if you want privacy as quickly as possible.

How fast does it grow and how soon will it fill in?

Brodie is a fast grower, often adding well over a foot of height in a season under good conditions. With proper spacing and regular water during establishment, a row will begin reading as a screen within a few years and continue gaining height for years after.

How tall and wide will it get?

Expect a mature height of roughly 25 to 45 ft. with a narrow width of just 6 to 10 ft. That tall, slim profile is exactly why Brodie is so useful for privacy in tight spaces. You can hold it shorter by shearing the green outer growth each year.

Is it deer resistant?

Yes. Junipers such as Brodie are among the more deer-resistant evergreens and are seldom browsed, which makes this a smart alternative to arborvitae in areas with heavy deer pressure. No plant is completely deer-proof, but red cedar rates well.

Does it grow in sun or shade?

Brodie performs best in full sun and will take part sun. Aim for at least six hours of direct light daily; the more sun it receives, the denser and more tightly upright it grows. In heavy shade the foliage thins and the form opens up.

Why is my red cedar turning brown?

A few causes are common: drought stress or winter desiccation (water deeply during dry fall and winter spells), or bagworms stripping the foliage (check for the small cone-shaped cases and remove them). Some browning of the oldest interior foliage in fall is normal and natural as the tree sheds old growth. Browning that follows soggy soil usually points to poor drainage, which junipers will not tolerate.