Blue Arrow Juniper Tree

Blue Arrow Juniper is hardy in USDA zones 4 to 9 and performs best in full sun with sharply well-draining soil. Junipers resent wet feet, so good drainage is the single most important thing you can give it.

Planting

1. Choose a spot with at least six to eight hours of direct sun; foliage stays densest and bluest in full light.
2. Confirm the soil drains freely. On heavy clay, amend with grit or compost, or plant slightly high on a low mound.
3. Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the ball is tall.
4. Set the plant so the root flare sits right at grade. Never bury the trunk; planting too deep is a common cause of decline.
5. Backfill with native soil, firm gently to remove air pockets, and water in deeply to settle the roots.
6. For a privacy row, space plants about 2 feet apart (roughly 60% of mature spread) so the narrow columns knit into a solid screen. Space them 3 feet for distinct, well-defined individual columns.
7. Apply two to three inches of mulch over the root zone, keeping it pulled back a few inches from the trunk.

Care & maintenance

• Water. Water deeply and regularly through the first one to two growing seasons to establish roots. As an evergreen, it also benefits from a deep drink during dry fall and winter spells to prevent foliage from drying out, but never let it sit in soggy soil.
• Feed. Light feeders by nature. If needed, apply a slow-release evergreen or conifer fertilizer once in early spring.
• Light. Full sun. Too much shade thins the column and dulls the blue color.
• Prune. Little pruning is needed thanks to its tight natural habit. If you shape it, shear only the green outer growth. Like most needled conifers, juniper does not regrow from bare brown wood, so never cut back into leafless interior branches or you will leave a permanent hole.
• Spacing. For a continuous screen, hold to about 2 feet between plants; widen to 3 feet for separated specimens.
• Pests & disease. Watch for bagworms, whose spindle-shaped cases can defoliate junipers if left unchecked; pick them off or treat early in the season. Spider mites may appear in hot, dry conditions. Good air circulation and proper drainage prevent most issues.
• Winter care. The narrow, upright form can splay under heavy wet snow or ice. In snow country, gently brush off accumulation or loosely tie the column with soft twine for the season.

How far apart should I plant them for a privacy hedge?

For a solid, screening column, space Blue Arrow Junipers about 2 feet apart center to center. That spacing, roughly 60% of the mature 2-to-3-foot width, lets the narrow forms grow together into a continuous wall of blue-green. If you prefer to keep each plant as a distinct vertical accent, set them about 3 feet apart.

How tall and wide will it get, and how fast?

Expect a mature height of 12 to 15 feet with a slim spread of just 2 to 3 feet. Growth is moderate, typically adding several inches to around a foot of height per year depending on conditions. It is the narrow footprint, not raw speed, that makes this juniper so useful for tight screening spaces.

Is it evergreen and colorful all year?

Yes. The dense, scale-like foliage is evergreen and holds its silvery blue-green color through all four seasons, including winter, when it keeps the landscape looking alive while deciduous plants are bare.

Is it deer resistant?

It is among the more deer-resistant evergreens. The aromatic, prickly juniper foliage is generally unappealing to deer, so it is a far better privacy choice than arborvitae in areas with heavy browsing. No plant is completely deer-proof in a hard winter, but Blue Arrow is rarely a first target.

Does it need full sun, and does it need pruning?

Plant it in full sun for the densest growth and best blue color; too much shade thins the column. Pruning is largely optional thanks to its naturally tidy shape. If you do shear, trim only the green outer growth. Junipers will not push new growth from bare brown wood, so avoid cutting back into the leafless interior.

Why is my Blue Arrow Juniper turning brown?

A few common causes, in order of likelihood:

• Wet roots. Junipers hate soggy soil. Poor drainage or overwatering is the most frequent reason for browning and dieback. Make sure water drains freely.
• Drought or winter desiccation. Newly planted or exposed junipers can brown if they dry out, especially during dry winter winds. Water deeply in dry fall and winter spells.
• Pests. Bagworms or spider mites can cause browning; inspect for spindle-shaped bag cases or fine webbing.
• Normal shedding. Some browning of the oldest interior foliage in fall is natural and nothing to worry about.