Baby Blue Eyes Spruce

Baby Blue Eyes Spruce is hardy in USDA zones 2 through 8 and develops its best color and densest form in full sun, tolerating part sun. It performs best in moist but well-draining soil; it dislikes soggy, poorly drained ground, so choose an open site with good air movement and room for a roughly 15-foot-wide mature spread.

Planting

1. Pick a spot with full to part sun and well-draining soil; avoid low areas where water collects.
2. Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than the root ball is tall.
3. Set the tree so the root flare (where the trunk widens at the base) sits at or just slightly above grade. Never bury the trunk.
4. Backfill with the native soil, firming gently to remove air pockets, then water in deeply to settle the roots.
5. For a privacy row or windbreak, space trees about 8 to 10 feet apart on center; if you want a tighter, faster-knitting screen, plant nearer the lower end of that range, keeping in mind each tree wants roughly 15 feet of eventual width.
6. Mulch a 2 to 3 inch layer over the root zone, pulling it back a few inches from the trunk to keep the bark dry.

Care & maintenance

• Water. Water deeply and regularly through the first one to two years to establish a strong root system. Spruce also benefit from a deep soak going into a dry fall or winter to prevent needle desiccation. Once established, they are quite drought tolerant.
• Feed. Apply a light, slow-release evergreen or conifer fertilizer in early spring. Avoid heavy feeding, which forces weak, loose growth.
• Light. Full sun produces the bluest color and densest branching; too much shade thins the habit.
• Prune. This spruce rarely needs pruning and looks best left to its natural form. If you must shape it, trim only the new green growth in late spring. Never cut back into bare, brown, leafless wood, as spruce will not push new growth from old wood.
• Spacing. For a privacy screen or windbreak, hold to roughly 8 to 10 feet apart on center so each tree can fill out to its mature width.
• Pests & disease. Watch for spider mites in hot, dry weather (look for stippled, dull needles), and for needle cast diseases in damp, crowded conditions. Good air circulation, proper spacing, and a deep watering routine prevent most problems.
• Winter care. Established trees are very cold-hardy. In heavy-snow regions, gently brush snow load off the branches to prevent breakage, and keep new trees well watered before the ground freezes.

How far apart should I plant them for a privacy hedge or windbreak?

Space Baby Blue Eyes Spruce about 8 to 10 feet apart on center for a screen or windbreak. Each tree wants roughly 15 feet of mature width, so this spacing lets them fill in and touch over time without crowding. Plant toward the closer end for a denser, faster-knitting row.

How fast does it grow and how soon will it fill in?

This is a slow-growing spruce, typically adding only several inches of height per year. That patience pays off in a dense, well-formed tree, but it does mean a privacy row will take several seasons to knit together. If you want immediate screening, start with the largest size you can and space the trees a bit closer.

How tall and wide will it get?

Over many years it matures to about 15 to 30 feet tall and around 15 feet wide, keeping a full pyramidal shape. It stays noticeably more compact and manageable than a standard Colorado blue spruce, which is part of why it suits smaller yards.

Is it deer resistant?

Largely, yes. The stiff, sharp blue needles make spruce one of the more deer-resistant evergreens, and deer usually pass it by in favor of softer foliage. No plant is completely deer-proof, but Baby Blue Eyes is a reliable choice where browsing is a concern.

Does it grow better in sun or shade?

Full sun is best. It produces the brightest blue color and the densest, most symmetrical growth in full to part sun. In too much shade the branching thins out and the color fades.

Why is my blue spruce turning brown?

A few common causes, usually fixable:

• Drought or winter desiccation. Dry roots, especially going into winter, cause needles to brown. Water deeply before the ground freezes.
• Spider mites. In hot, dry spells mites cause dull, stippled, fading needles. Hose down the foliage and treat if needed.
• Needle cast. Damp, crowded conditions can brown and drop older needles; improve airflow and spacing.
• Normal inner-needle drop. Some shedding of the oldest interior needles is natural and not a cause for concern.