Daffodil bulbs are planted in fall while the soil is still workable, then bloom the following spring. Unpack your bulbs as soon as they arrive and keep them cool, dry, and out of direct sun until planting day.
Planting
- Pick your spot. Choose a site with full sun to part shade and soil that drains freely. Standing water is the one thing daffodils will not tolerate.
- Loosen the soil. Work the top 8 to 10 inches, mixing in compost if your ground is heavy clay or very sandy.
- Set the depth. Plant each bulb 6 inches deep, pointed tip up and flat root plate down.
- Space for clusters. Keep bulbs 4 to 6 inches apart and plant in groups of 5 or more for the best display in a border.
- Backfill and water. Firm the soil over the bulbs and water once thoroughly to settle everything in.
- Mulch lightly. Add 1 to 2 inches of mulch in colder zones to buffer temperature swings.
Container Planting
- Use a deep pot. Choose a container at least 10 inches deep with open drainage holes and quality potting mix.
- Plant closer together. Bulbs can sit 2 to 3 inches apart in pots for a fuller look.
- Overwinter cold. In zones 3-6, move potted bulbs to an unheated garage or shelter so they get chilling without freezing solid.
Watering
- Spring growth. Keep soil evenly moist while foliage and flowers are active, about 1 inch of water per week including rain.
- Summer dormancy. Stop supplemental watering once leaves yellow. Dry summer soil is exactly what the bulbs want.
Feeding
- At planting. Mix a low-nitrogen bulb fertilizer or bone meal into the planting hole.
- Each spring. Scatter bulb food over the bed as shoots emerge, then water it in.
After Bloom Care
- Deadhead spent flowers. Snip off faded blooms so energy goes back to the bulb.
- Leave the leaves. Let foliage yellow and die back naturally for at least 6 weeks before removing it. That is how next year's flowers are built.
- Divide when crowded. Every 4 to 5 years, lift clumps after foliage fades and replant the offsets at the same depth.