Camellias are easygoing once established. Give them morning sun with afternoon shade, acidic soil that drains well, and steady moisture through the first year.
Planting
- Unbox right away. Remove packaging, water the root ball, and let the plant acclimate in a shaded spot for a few days.
- Pick the right spot. Choose part sun or dappled shade with protection from harsh afternoon sun and drying winter wind.
- Dig wide, not deep. Make the hole two to three times the width of the root ball and exactly as deep.
- Set it high. Keep the top of the root ball level with or slightly above grade, since camellias resent being planted too deep.
- Backfill and mulch. Fill with native soil amended with compost or pine bark, water in well, and add 2 to 3 inches of mulch, keeping it off the trunk.
- Space for hedging. Set plants 36 to 60 inches apart for a solid evergreen screen.
Watering
- First season. Water deeply once or twice a week, more often in heat, keeping soil evenly moist but never soggy.
- Established plants. Water during dry spells and especially in fall while flower buds are developing.
- Containers. Check the top inch of soil every few days and water until it drains freely from the bottom.
Feeding
- Timing. Feed in early spring after flowering with a fertilizer formulated for acid-loving plants such as azaleas and camellias.
- Go light. Follow label rates and avoid late-summer feeding, which can push tender growth before frost.
Pruning
- When to prune. Prune right after flowering finishes in late winter or early spring, before new buds set.
- What to remove. Take out dead or crossing branches and shorten stray shoots to shape the plant or tighten a hedge.
Winter Care
- Mulch matters. A refreshed layer of mulch in late fall insulates roots in colder zones.
- Shelter young plants. Site new plantings away from drying winter wind for the first couple of seasons.
- Patio pots. Move containers to a protected wall, unheated garage, or porch during hard freezes.