Emerald Green Arborvitae

Emerald Green Arborvitae is hardy in USDA zones 3-8 and performs best in full sun. It is adaptable to most soils but insists on good drainage; consistently soggy ground is the most common cause of failure, so improve heavy clay or choose a site that drains freely.

Planting

1. Choose a spot with full sun (at least six hours daily); too much shade thins the foliage and opens gaps in your screen.
2. Confirm the soil drains well. Loosen and amend heavy clay with compost, or mound the planting area slightly to shed excess water.
3. Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball but no deeper than its height, so the plant sits on firm, undug soil.
4. Set the plant so the root flare (where the trunk widens into roots) is level with the surrounding grade. Never bury the flare or pile soil against the trunk.
5. Backfill with native soil, firm gently to remove air pockets, and water in deeply to settle the roots.
6. For a privacy row, space plants roughly 3-4 ft. apart on center. This gives the columns room to mature while still knitting together into a solid screen; widen to 4-5 ft. if you want each plant to keep more individual definition.
7. Apply 2-3 in. of mulch over the root zone to hold moisture, keeping it pulled a few inches back from the trunk.

Care & maintenance

• Water. Water deeply and regularly through the first one to two growing seasons while roots establish. Arborvitae are shallow-rooted and dislike drought; keep watering during dry spells, including a deep soak in dry fall and winter to prevent foliage from drying out (desiccation).
• Feed. Apply a light, slow-release evergreen or conifer fertilizer in early spring. Established plants need little feeding.
• Light. Full sun keeps growth dense and the column tight; shaded plants grow thin and floppy.
• Prune/shear. Arborvitae tolerates shearing well, including into older growth, so you can trim to shape or control size. Shear lightly in late spring to early summer; avoid hard cuts in late fall. Even though it regrows more readily than needled conifers like spruce or pine, it is still safest to keep cuts within green, foliated growth for the best recovery.
• Spacing. For a continuous privacy hedge, plant 3-4 ft. apart on center (4-5 ft. for more separation between plants).
• Pests & disease. Watch for bagworms, the most common arborvitae pest; the small spindle-shaped "bags" hanging from branches should be picked off or treated early before they defoliate sections. Spider mites can appear in hot, dry conditions. Good drainage prevents most root problems.
• Winter care. In snowy regions, gently brush heavy snow off the branches and, for exposed plants, loosely tie the upright form with twine to prevent splaying or breakage under snow load. An anti-desiccant spray or burlap windscreen helps in harsh, windy winter sites.

How far apart should I plant them for a privacy hedge?

For a solid, fast-filling screen, space plants about 3-4 ft. apart measured center to center. That spacing lets the narrow columns grow together into a continuous wall while giving roots room to establish. If you prefer each plant to keep a bit of its own outline, move to 4-5 ft. apart.

How fast does it grow and how soon will it fill in?

Emerald Green is a moderate grower, typically adding around a foot of height per year once established. At 3-4 ft. spacing, a young row usually reads as a connected screen within a few seasons and matures into a dense privacy wall over time. Consistent watering and full sun speed the fill-in.

How tall and wide will it get?

Expect a mature height of 10-15 ft. and a width of 8-15 ft. Its real appeal is the upright, narrow-to-pyramidal form, which gives you height for screening without the wide spread of bulkier evergreens, so it suits tighter spaces and property lines.

Is it evergreen and does it hold its color in winter?

Yes. It is evergreen year-round and stays green from the base to the tip. Emerald Green is specifically known for keeping its bright color through cold weather far better than older arborvitae varieties that fade to a dull bronze in winter.

Is it deer resistant?

No. Arborvitae is one of the most heavily browsed evergreens by deer, especially in winter when other food is scarce. If you have deer pressure, plan on repellents, fencing, or a physical barrier to protect young plants, or consider a more deer-resistant evergreen for exposed sites.

Why is my arborvitae turning brown?

A few common causes:

• Drought or transplant stress. Shallow roots dry out fast; inconsistent water is the most frequent reason for browning, particularly in the first couple of years.
• Winter burn. Cold, drying winds and frozen soil can desiccate foliage; a deep fall soak and a windscreen help.
• Bagworms or spider mites. Check for hanging "bags" or fine webbing and stippled foliage and treat promptly.
• Normal inner-needle drop. Older interior foliage naturally browns and sheds in fall while the outer growth stays green. This is harmless.