Chicago Hardy Fig Tree

Chicago Hardy grows outdoors in zones 5 through 10. In zones 7 and warmer it thrives as an in-ground shrub or small tree; in colder zones, grow it in a large container you can shelter over winter, or plant it in a protected microclimate and expect it to die back and regrow each spring.

Planting

1. Choose the warmest, sunniest spot you have. Full sun (at least 6 to 8 hours) ripens the sweetest fruit; a south-facing wall adds reflected heat in cooler regions.
2. Use well-draining soil. Figs dislike wet feet, so amend heavy clay with compost or plant in a raised area or roomy container.
3. Dig the hole twice as wide as the root ball and just as deep. Set the plant at the same depth it grew in its pot.
4. Backfill with native soil, firm gently, and water in thoroughly to settle out air pockets.
5. Mulch with 2 to 3 inches of bark or straw to hold moisture and protect roots, keeping the mulch a few inches off the trunk.

Care & maintenance

• Water. Keep soil evenly moist the first season. Established plants are fairly drought-tolerant but fruit best with steady moisture as figs swell; container plants need more frequent watering.
• Feed. Apply a balanced fertilizer in early spring; too much nitrogen pushes leaves at the expense of fruit, so feed moderately.
• Light & temperature. Full sun and heat drive ripening. Roots are hardy to zone 5, but in zones 5 to 6 protect the base with a thick mulch or wrap, or overwinter container plants dormant in an unheated garage or basement around 30 to 50 degrees.
• Prune. Prune in late winter while dormant. Because it fruits on new growth, you can cut it back hard to control size without sacrificing the crop; remove dead, crossing, or weak stems.
• Pollinate. No partner required. Chicago Hardy is self-fertile and sets fruit without pollination, so one plant is all you need.
• Pests & disease. Generally trouble-free. Watch for birds at ripening time, occasional scale or spider mites, and root-zone rot in soggy soil; good drainage prevents most problems.
• Harvest. Figs ripen from July through October. Pick them soft, fully colored, and slightly drooping at the neck; ripe figs do not sweeten further once removed.

How does Chicago Hardy fig taste?

The medium, purple-brown fruit has deep-red flesh with a rich, jammy sweetness and notes of berry and honey. It is excellent eaten fresh off the branch, and just as good dried, baked into tarts, or simmered into preserves.

Do I need a second fig tree to get fruit?

No. Chicago Hardy is self-fertile and does not require a pollinator or wasp. A single plant will produce a full crop on its own.

Can I really grow it in a cold climate?

Yes, which is the whole point of this variety. The roots survive freezes down into zone 5. In the coldest zones the top may die back in winter, but the plant regrows from the base each spring and fruits on that new growth. In zones 5 to 6, mulch the roots heavily or grow it in a pot you move to shelter.

How do I overwinter it in a container?

Once the plant drops its leaves and goes dormant, move the pot into an unheated garage, basement, or shed kept roughly between 30 and 50 degrees. Water sparingly through winter, just enough to keep the roots from drying out completely, then bring it back into the sun after the last hard frost.

Why is my fig tree dropping its fruit?

Early fruit drop usually traces to inconsistent watering, a sudden cold snap, or too much nitrogen fertilizer pushing leafy growth. Keep soil evenly moist as figs swell, feed moderately, and give the plant the warmest, sunniest spot you can. Young plants also commonly shed a first-year crop as they establish.

When do I pick the figs, and how do I know they are ripe?

Harvest runs July through October. A ripe fig is soft to a gentle squeeze, fully colored, and bends or droops at the neck where it meets the stem; a drop of nectar at the eye is a good sign. Figs do not ripen further after picking, so leave them on the plant until they are clearly soft and sweet.